...¡¡¡ FRIENDS SUCH ¡¡¡... early August I had the opportunity to visit the Inca citadel of Choqueq uira, one that hangs in the mountains above the Apurimac River, surrounded by jungle moist, despite being in an area of \u200b\u200bmountains and filled with exuberance and life, porq or ea METER to ascend to it that we co m or are changing landscapes and s story ecological delei cos for you d and observers of nature ... fu i with 5 enthusiastic friends with whom, despite our different characters, we formed a fa ntástico eq u ipo that "domino" fatigue and agotamien to physical and why not also the aspect of mind as when enf rent adverse weather conditions during our trip.
... DAY ...
The steep hike in the pu eza EBLO of Cach now, lug to r I imagine what more austere and less beautiful than it is. This sympathetic co small town 3000 meters above sea level and sta nestled in a valley much wider green and wooded hillsides overlooking the magnificent n Padreyoc and evades complete and im a landscape draftsman. Perhaps the excessive volume of horse manure as detract anything, but we have to remem r for
few years the people here live from tourism and have mules and horses are more profitable than cows milk have ras. Anyway, here begins the march and pray dem little over three hours to get to the place called Capuliyoc that is where empezamo s the "gross l" b faded to the most ba ja the 
q uebrad to the Apurimac, which is nu work is first goal. Already scubrí Cachora of these two hours may be "ah elete" If we hired a taxi to bring us closer to Capuliyoc. Are 11 k ilómetros that glad the owners of the mobility of people us tr aslad an extra charge of 40 soles career ... will pair the next . Capuliyoc From the top you can see that is the c iudadela Inca. Even with a good binocular reach obs 
ervar some buildings. Without but not yet what s surprising is the trem endo road ahead for end desc gone. It gave me the impression of being in u nter na ca brick ground, must have been for the strong sun that mo tion (half day) and the red earth of place and the large amount of grassland in these slopes heated s. Since all the Apurimac t looks like a very thin stream the bottom d the barrel. Is also seen in a better áng ulo the magnitude Padreyoc traffic. Something qu and call my attention at the time was that under the Laciar g is a lush veg Etaci ng, as the thawing of the moisture produced enough to feed nte everything is and ecosystem. S and go from there wild woods among, without human interference. I figured the Bears glasses lurking in those hills and looking flowers of bromeliads in the trees, their main food.
To qu
ienes have a horse and carrier for the trip up here will s sitting on the horse. A p Capuliyoc Artira descent must be on foot. No Arrie ro ago baja r a sus animales con personas a cu estas, puesto que afir man que los caballos se pueden d esbarrancar con semejante peso. Por tanto no q ueda otra cosa que agarrar bie n los basto nes y emp 
ezar l a l arguísima bajada. Sabíamos que eran alrededor de 4 o mas horas para llegar al fo ndo del Cañón, al lugar denominado Playa Rosalina, así que empezamos. Después de un buen rato y desarmar se uno de los bastones de las Participate p ant is came to a stone bench at a bend in the road. I think had spent more than an hour, so we sat us down a rat or to observe all that had gone down and that seemed enough. He was also impressed by the austerity of the hillside, covered with dry straw and a ome tr onc that I refused to be burnt by the sun. In my pre Gunter if that place was Cocamasa na the carrier W ilberto answered me that site Tinajayoc called. Not if e ra for r sali step response, but in my mind is stuck with that name. Cocamasana we expected to later. Did not take long to get to is and place. appropriate x. 40 minutes. The landscape here is different . A sign anu ncia arrival at the site. U. So iara from there all the breaks and stops on the route. Since there already pu ede see our goal for that day. Ros Beach alina is at the bottom and that we can encourage s and we saw where t we were coming. As we refrescábamos sitting on the bench 
ra pied site, and is duly roof for shelter in its shadow, a beautiful Condor flew over the place and time we delight or glide your domain.
Cocamasana is a beautiful edge on all that way. There are a couple of houses locals, and discover even MEJ back or the virtues of the place. This in
a narrow the large C Añón qu and allows the appearance of trees and Eryot Ceibos and cas, d and made that place is an echo ystem different from the rest since it is co but also of having mechanisms Be we couple 
to store ar humidity, because the logs you seasonally sec l you that there are many trees to lli is so filled pl epiphytes such as tapirs bro melia, tilla NDSi and orchids, some with flowers. delight to the observer of nature. There are also cactus, grasses and other as the huanarpo or as jatropha. That day we continue down as the afternoon progressed and the heat does not ce saba. And saw the steep road that we would have to Scend the next day. Ea asked him where this Wilberto Maranpata ba. I alo sen a "small" tree (at least that could be seen from the f rente) and he said that "there is Maranpata" ... that place we 
esp for Arab gave the following day, while it was more than 3 in the t l burns when you bucks to Chiquis ca, a place that we could see also desd and above. Chiquisca is an oasis on the road. There is enough space p ara set up camps amid much greenery and shade. There are well-appointed bathrooms. I also ECIO couple had one s rooms dedicated to h ospedaje. can get horses and mules for arre 
o. A couple of families sell water (at 3.50 soles girl and 10 soles bottle of 2 liters s), soft drinks, cookies TAS, some fruits (so warm the place there are trees d and papayas, custard apples and mangos), an occasional treat and beer, 10 soles bottle. A couple of bottles "saying s co" our throats, could is tired already had the bes languages'm our ro after Dilla. They were deliciously icy, Spark plug because aq is re gas refrigerators, and we celebrate and recover forces to the decline d final day. After a short break anything or continue down. I counted like 20 to get zigzag ar Rosalina. Here the road became more sec or never and we ac cactus ompañaro 
n t odo this tray ecto. There are some very large and high reminded me l columnar as the Quebrada Browningia ada of Tinajas m uy near Lima. Also other smaller, with bright red tubular flowers, finally started showing vegetation very red in the deras of these hills and the sound of the river ... he was growing ez v stronger, signal arrival we were near the camp ... until we arrived. was already 4 o'clock in the afternoon e. Our legs and asked rest. At the end of the tour concludes that this was the section more required 5 days of walking. We arrived at Pla and Rosalina, there was no sand on the shore as I thought at the beginning and it was not easy ta n BATHTUB ass in the river, as I had been told my friends in Lima, in addition ore than the cloud of mosquitoes that awaited us below. H ay a small kiosk with a lady who lives there and 
sell ag ua, sodas, etcetc ... besides fruit. Charles aba released on a papaya, which com left with friends and turned out to be a delicacy by how sweet he was and what cool our palates you dry. Soon devoured Tereza and Elizabeth remained in post. The place is a set of ions edificac very recent, with bathrooms and showers as a center vacaci onal, however does not work as ta l. A falt to someone to report, that night we set up tents not and we settled into a room that was ab ertainly, insulated and sleepings only on the ground and ready ... to cook dinner and organize for the next day. The night Rosa lina is hot. The place is at 1500 meters altitude and locked in the narrow canyon , so do not feel cold. Without pregnant had to go to sleep smeared with repellent as mosquitoes planned "cenarnos" entirely. Nor were alone because a group of more than 10 person as the darkness came almost Dad and leaves us little about hosting. This group started at 5 or 6 in the morning next to chok uequi rao and was our "wake up" morning. Their plan was to reach the citadel and then walk to Agu as Calientes. We start at 7 and a little more, after the "hearty" breakfast of oatmeal and t egg Ortilla 
or H ot dog. Rosalina is frequent in you hear flocks of parrots as viv in the surrounding mountains and down into the gorge eating the fruit of the locals. Quiosquito lady t to lso told me that there are bats that eat fruit, so q eu or parrots and bats are bi in seen by them. Bat also commented that "itch" to horses, I suppose to be vampires, and much care given to sleep in the open ......
started the day with enthusiasm and trying d and beat the sun that when do fall for these dollars can be ruthless. Being in charge I left the kitchen always last. Other "ripped" enas ap finished breakfast. What we knew was that first merely have to get to a place called "Santa Rosa Low" and au nthat from Rosalina not see, I had seen the day outside with an detail as were the stops to be done. Santa Rosa, both "low " Santa Rosa and the other a little above, are located approx ox. to 2100 mts. At first the road is very austere, as the term we bring to Rosalina, well off and very limited by a vertical skirt on that hill, near a wall. It arrives in an hour and a half to two hours and there is a nice area to stay, campsites style of Sant Eulalia Alred or Chosica. There is a cane sugar mill site,
ues p the plant and there cr ece well as custard apple trees, avocados and others. N also a small kiosk that provides water, soda and a few other things as well as a friendly girl call mado Julian who tends to the place and talk nicely with what I saw or walk Ajero to stop there, stop being "mandatory" because Santa Rosa comes from the river with a Saharan thirst and sweating due to the strong sun and by that time we reached the point that part of the ceremonial there is to pump and squeeze the pole mast h removed as sweat soaked our clothes. In fact there are plenty of water and even a shower that can take place as the host of permits while waiting for clothes to dry a little drinking water, soda or sa or maybe a cold beer seated or banking site. The places r is so nice to throw in the backpack causes lie in soloing in p asto, but we know that that day we must come to camp up there passing first through M aranpata, so there is no other than ret omar backpack and tinue . L 
another Santa Ros a, "high" this "allicito just" 20 minutes up, and the rancher is the aunt of Julian, but not as friendly as the obrino s, but there can instruct the lady who prepared a stew or saucer. The toilets of Santa Rosa High is much better and
Jan you green your area for tents. Both places charge "astronomical" sum of 1 sol per tent, nothing to embezzle our pockets. D spent the argo there and we saw com or had changed the landscape, as the Two Holy Roses are green ba stant in relation to Playa Rosalina. There are plenty crop fields and crops. Many small birds accompany the walks and mountains as they are increasing amounts of wild flowers and vegetation. It also increases the shadow on the road, appear as large shrubs and trees that provide, Ac or welcome in a warm way and at noon. As we turned a bend we know each v ez m Maranpata as close, I look and l tree that gave me the Wilberto pointed
to earlier and other times I see, more and more large. Other Maranpata must already be in, so Breto Cesar and Tereza do that went co No horses. It's almost one in the afternoon and suddenly I can not stop now to spot the tree very large, which indicates that we to Maranpata is a pig is ad or eucalyptus waiting with SHADE ar the walkers as they arrive forever. Classic sign appears signaling the place and I think that there promotion just as the citadel is there, the forehead ... little mistake ... although you see "there, in front" to reach it must first will go a tram or anything small. Maranpata is truly a beautiful site located on a hill up there. It is a special place because it allows divis ar not only Inca city but also Apurimac canyon in all its glory, as well as the surrounding mountains, some snow. There are more than a couple many area homes and camping, as lu garen have prepared their rooms for the installation of the camps. For now is the last place where one can stock up on water and some food you because in the later camp is not got nothing. I find myself again Wilberto the carrier who tells me that all my co mpañeros continued co n Amilcar, the other 
carrier, who pulled the mules with our luggage, camping o p "bottom" of the citadel, in na zo camping. To get there you walk so m m enos something as a medium pace and time that part of the route has go down as pronounced and therefore also increases that do spec ialmente tired as you bring the bustle of the 5 hours and legs rising and want to stop for the day. However, it is especially fascinating because the way lets look at the impressive Inca terraces, "hanging" almost vertically on the side of the hills and looking down the Apurimac River. Fascin also to the increase in veg etation as the road gets into the gorges of the mountain. flowers begin to appear res are not below, as well as some streams of water. Birds are not surprising and their songs and trills are heard more clearly and varieties d. This is truly a magical place q ue appears to be a rain forest where plant and animal species together, as t or sierra and jungle. If n yet we are in the mountains and know that "flipping" the hill on the way to Aguas Calientes, the landscape changes again and becomes new tively barren, but now only LLE garemos Choquequirao camp. And 
to were more than two in the afternoon I continued the way to the camp and began to leak, corroborating the sunny little cloudy and the weather was that day. The water that fell at that time was enough for you empaparn, aunq ue the bustle and hurry to get there and end up that day made us feel the rain. It is rare in August rains in the highlands and high jungle of our Peru, but in these times of global warming, anything can happen and is never to be ma other s of the properly prepared. I ENCA nt find many orchid plants and bromeliads in trees, some with flowers. Also many butterflies and insects really a different landscape all previous before seen in this route, until he finally arrives at camp after little something more than an hour at a good pace. The boys had arrived and brought their tents, the same as they were wet with rain. Antero met, who had arrived first and had merely used the time to shower, then at Camp Choquequirao en suite bathrooms are in very good condition and with plenty of ice water. Along the campaign to men is a cabin that is those who run the place and are responsible of collection and entry to the place. Co 
bran the exaggerated sum of 36 dollars per na personal and service offer no guidance to the citadel. tamp oco and ind is any printed information and even a garbage bin to deposit. staff working there is esp ecial spare, before my claim quer er am charge carriers is saying only that "they know nothing", which is the INC who has everything and they limited to do what you say ... fine Cusco lment to my argument that the carrier only leave backpacks and Maranpata back to not charge me for them. It said that the INC Cusco c work 18 soles per qu carrier and enter Maranpata beyond, spending that has to take q ho hires, and is completely illogical since you carriers l are those who will take tourists , Cusco would imagine that if the carriers could have Cachora ... in fact remain if No visitors. Several shortcomings are in that camp, I hope things better for the benefit of visitors who deserve MEJ 
or to get there. Around 4 m edia pm Stop the rain and left a beautiful rainbow and after a while began the early-morning meal, mashed potatoes, some canned goods, bread, soup ram in, porridge and promise to make a cup of tea with biscuits or for that of 9 in the evening. Nobody Levan to after dinner, all caught sleep early, c to rest on what is necessary to waking up at 6 am the next day and ascend to the citadel. The initial plan was to spend a day in the Citadel and cross it with carefully. But we decided to go down the same next day because we saw very " Wet pussy the camp and had to avoid possible rain that soaked all our stuff, then we would have five or six hours the next day to r Ecorr the citadel and then down to Santa Rosa Baja camping. Our omen as to what "wet" does not deceive us. That n ight the rain started, I estimate at about 11 pm and not stop for any reason the climate cooling and soaking much tent was installed there.
... THIRD DAY ...
All that morning the rain fell steadily and there was no tent qu and suffered no is by water since the area camps ne nt tie some inclination ng and favors the ag ua penetrate the floor. Needless to say of mud that turned the roads. A lthough wanted to start as early as possible to climb to the citadel we could not do as the rain stopped. Nando finished breakfast in one of the showers in the bathrooms, building that no one dared to bathe rse h as Elada water. At about 8 thirty in the morning began to subside and decided to climb to the citadel, the same is 45 minutes or less above the mpamento ca. Would have to go until 2 pm
and a maximum, then down, pick things and start back to Santa Rosa Baja. The road to the ci udadela is accompanied by or lush vegetation na tion and that day was completely muddy. I imagine it will be like in the era of lluv ia, t the time not walk well. However
and despite moments that sparked Hit me
you up around 9 ½ d morning and finally ¡¡¡... ...¡¡¡ were in place that motivated us to make this trip and really see the grandeur of the buildings Incas made worthwhile all the effort. First could find on arrival are few sidewalks that lead to the main plaza l, very broad, level and surrounded g reat buildings with roofs in a "V" in ép its goose should be prot ection, in the manner of Machu Pichu. Then v ienen a series of buildings as we visit the place and we ascend gradually. We also see the impressive old stone trough t pit water from above as well as more buildings that follow one after another. This should s 
er the primary role in this citadel. We reached the top of the l 
ugar and from there we spotted the Ushno í or ceremonial platform ma found practically body looking into the canyon of the Apurimac. However, what we are most rprendió so were the colorful flames of stone, very white d Ecored whole ndenería to observe that requires taking a path that descends vertically above Apu Rimac and surrounded by vegetation uberante ex bear mount. To observe these unique fire in all its fullness we have to reach a precarious my tor that is at the forefront of all the slope on the hill. Ecstatic after watching them back to the main plaza l now taking up this road up and we once again test our physical rest. We take time to descend to the platforms that we saw on arrival at Maranpata and are on the other side of cerr l 
or silver flames. Time passed quickly and we had to ap resurgence to return to the camp because it was past one o'clock. View truly worth staying a whole day there and cross it carefully, it will be for a future visit. Lu
ego r visiting the Inca city hurried back to c ampamento to collect things. Our friendly carriers and had come from Maranpata and tents had been disarmed, it was necessary to rush for that we were with time and did not want surprise us in the hush of darkness a.
started
past two-thirty in the afternoon and for a change began to dribble again without e mbarg not seen as threat of heavy rain from the sky cleared moments. I appreciate down the vegetation and this time advised by a biologist from Cusco who was making an inventory of flora on site. It happens that in Choquequirao ntran species surveyed saw both as high jungle, so m heard that an ecosystem is very special for these latitudes. Maybe it perpendicular peaks and mountains that form real walls d
and rock that happen there. Besides the abundance vegetation that makes many other s you establish their homes there, d rom small art rop ll and insects to large Andean bears and deer still wander down. hope soon to declare all the rides NA as Natural and Historic Shrine and also ensure the archaeological ntangibilidad i GICA also protecting its ecosystem.
We arrived at Santa Rosa down almost overnight. We recognized the symposia remove Julian who was attending despite the darkness and that we greatly rejoice. Also allowed us to use one of their rooms to install our kitchen and indoor picnic with some comfort, so after a delicious and varied meal, including desktop, became our "kitchen" rmitorio do ... that night rest much better than the previous and the next day you saw or n deluxe breakfast.
FOURTH DAY ... ...
This morning we had a good rest and a better climate. knew that the time factor was controlled, and therefore we would pa pod Sar or a little and enjoy some more of just being there, in contact with nature and enjoying the beautiful landscape quietly and companionship and good conversation with friends. Antero rose more tempra not others, breakfast and set off. It was the last time we saw him on the trip, since I do not stop until you return to Abancay, I think that m ism day. Other breakfast quietly conveniently located on the site of Julian who lent us their "furniture" for this purpose. About 9 and a half ago companies Ndima the march down to Rosalina and then ascending. That day we would go to Cocamasana, where they would camp and we would be about a day since you following (Saturday) we had to get to Cachora around noon and take a car to Abancay. As always I went last and did the hike alone. The minority of ca b faded allowed me to observe details of the flora and fauna of the bottom of the Quebrada del Apurimac. The huge c
antide of red grass cu ber from half of the hill to the river level and mix with eryotecas cactus and trees without foliage and at this time. I also found a large green beetle, awesome, not only by size but by or confident attitude to the lens of my camera. Do not know what variety it is, but after the boys told me they too had seen. I also commented on 
Guanábana impressive that devour Tere za in Rosalina, the only pe nsarl and feel the fragrance of this delicious fruit and l palate. Going down to Rosalina and cross the bridge saw something moving in the co pas trees. It was a large bird with beige tan chest and belly, jumping among the branches. In the beginning I thought it was a guan but after observing it carefully I realized that was kind, was a Cuckoo or Cuco, blackened birds related to Guardacaballos, looking for insects and small fruits among the vegetation tion , these species are very useful as they fought to trees of harmful pests. Small birds, insects and butterflies 
as hover in the bottom of the qu 
Ebrad, est last as remarkable for being eng aphthous mimetic.
I counted over 20 switchbacks to be overcome to reach CHIQUISCA a. When you get there after about an hour from Rosalina, take for water and refresh. Chiquisca definitely is the biggest camp of all the route and to confirm that there can be consequences Guir hosts je rustic, but there and found some foreigners staying njoy d nature. Since sub Chiquisca way to Cocamasana is just under an hour. The sun fuertísimo h izo we reached the place heated. Fortunately, my arrival was most welcome, as Cesar offered me a glass of cold beer, the most delicious who has tried in recent times. Cocamasana camp is truly a special place because it is a ledge overlooking the Canyon and to the Inca citadel. In one of the two houses of the place does a bodeguita, with enough to cool and calm ar hunger. addition, the kind owner has prepared a room for dining for tourists. There is a shower which is always the best remedy to cool to get heated from Rosalina, is in fact place to stop for all who pass through here, either outbound or return. Because it is something stuck in a cannon arm forms a m very warm icroclima favors the appearance of a semi-dry forest. On the day we saw condors flying over the place, we saw both the outward and return, and at night was spectacular, as the song of the night owls and other birds joined the spec spectacle of lights of fireflies that covered virtually entire ar ea of \u200b\u200bcamping, an unforgettable event of nature.
... FIFTH DAY ...
That day just being back in town gave us the courage to leave very early g anarle the sun. So we did and so the breakfast was particularly short. The first who left were Tereza and Cesar, mounted their horses, they knew that everything that stretch for them was riding as it is rising. The carriers also strive to make that last day as fast as you can
and come home earlier for a Cicala, relax and be with their families. However, the other 3, as Antero and had disappeared the previous day, we still had to walk, not just the end of the climb up Capuliyoc after nearly 3 hours of climbing, but the 11 miles down the road Cachora ground up. Those 11 miles are as 22 
although we do not accept it, the fatigue of the previous 4 days begin to feel and can not wait to finish the route and we are in the population and eating properly seated at a table.
Without But, as we had seen on the first day, the creek has a herm Cachora
bear framework of greenery and beauty, including some brief s springs that refresh us before arrive. Caught my attention the large flocks of parrots red forehead, there are many groups of birds, parrots calculated by bands at 100, imagine the fruit trees are cone after a tour of these birds so that people who have gardens detest.
Finally, after 3 hours walk from the open we Cachora Square, almost falling from fatigue and heat and with a desire to take something frozen that we cool the throat.
After this ceremonial, almost magical time and rediscover all
in town looking for a mobility that we moved as quickly as possible to Abancay, recalling that the bus to take us to Lima hand at 5 afternoon and would have only 3 hours of available time, you need to find a shower, have lunch and get on the bus.
it was and about 2 pm we were in Abancay. A mixture of satisfaction and regret, that we had managed to reach our goal, and experiences shared by all those days that came to an end.
... DAY ...
The steep hike in the pu eza EBLO of Cach now, lug to r I imagine what more austere and less beautiful than it is. This sympathetic co small town 3000 meters above sea level and sta nestled in a valley much wider green and wooded hillsides overlooking the magnificent n Padreyoc and evades complete and im a landscape draftsman. Perhaps the excessive volume of horse manure as detract anything, but we have to remem r for
few years the people here live from tourism and have mules and horses are more profitable than cows milk have ras. Anyway, here begins the march and pray dem little over three hours to get to the place called Capuliyoc that is where empezamo s the "gross l" b faded to the most ba ja the 
q uebrad to the Apurimac, which is nu work is first goal. Already scubrí Cachora of these two hours may be "ah elete" If we hired a taxi to bring us closer to Capuliyoc. Are 11 k ilómetros that glad the owners of the mobility of people us tr aslad an extra charge of 40 soles career ... will pair the next . Capuliyoc From the top you can see that is the c iudadela Inca. Even with a good binocular reach obs 
ervar some buildings. Without but not yet what s surprising is the trem endo road ahead for end desc gone. It gave me the impression of being in u nter na ca brick ground, must have been for the strong sun that mo tion (half day) and the red earth of place and the large amount of grassland in these slopes heated s. Since all the Apurimac t looks like a very thin stream the bottom d the barrel. Is also seen in a better áng ulo the magnitude Padreyoc traffic. Something qu and call my attention at the time was that under the Laciar g is a lush veg Etaci ng, as the thawing of the moisture produced enough to feed nte everything is and ecosystem. S and go from there wild woods among, without human interference. I figured the Bears glasses lurking in those hills and looking flowers of bromeliads in the trees, their main food. To qu
ienes have a horse and carrier for the trip up here will s sitting on the horse. A p Capuliyoc Artira descent must be on foot. No Arrie ro ago baja r a sus animales con personas a cu estas, puesto que afir man que los caballos se pueden d esbarrancar con semejante peso. Por tanto no q ueda otra cosa que agarrar bie n los basto nes y emp 
ezar l a l arguísima bajada. Sabíamos que eran alrededor de 4 o mas horas para llegar al fo ndo del Cañón, al lugar denominado Playa Rosalina, así que empezamos. Después de un buen rato y desarmar se uno de los bastones de las Participate p ant is came to a stone bench at a bend in the road. I think had spent more than an hour, so we sat us down a rat or to observe all that had gone down and that seemed enough. He was also impressed by the austerity of the hillside, covered with dry straw and a ome tr onc that I refused to be burnt by the sun. In my pre Gunter if that place was Cocamasa na the carrier W ilberto answered me that site Tinajayoc called. Not if e ra for r sali step response, but in my mind is stuck with that name. Cocamasana we expected to later. Did not take long to get to is and place. appropriate x. 40 minutes. The landscape here is different . A sign anu ncia arrival at the site. U. So iara from there all the breaks and stops on the route. Since there already pu ede see our goal for that day. Ros Beach alina is at the bottom and that we can encourage s and we saw where t we were coming. As we refrescábamos sitting on the bench 
ra pied site, and is duly roof for shelter in its shadow, a beautiful Condor flew over the place and time we delight or glide your domain. Cocamasana is a beautiful edge on all that way. There are a couple of houses locals, and discover even MEJ back or the virtues of the place. This in
a narrow the large C Añón qu and allows the appearance of trees and Eryot Ceibos and cas, d and made that place is an echo ystem different from the rest since it is co but also of having mechanisms Be we couple 
to store ar humidity, because the logs you seasonally sec l you that there are many trees to lli is so filled pl epiphytes such as tapirs bro melia, tilla NDSi and orchids, some with flowers. delight to the observer of nature. There are also cactus, grasses and other as the huanarpo or as jatropha. That day we continue down as the afternoon progressed and the heat does not ce saba. And saw the steep road that we would have to Scend the next day. Ea asked him where this Wilberto Maranpata ba. I alo sen a "small" tree (at least that could be seen from the f rente) and he said that "there is Maranpata" ... that place we 
esp for Arab gave the following day, while it was more than 3 in the t l burns when you bucks to Chiquis ca, a place that we could see also desd and above. Chiquisca is an oasis on the road. There is enough space p ara set up camps amid much greenery and shade. There are well-appointed bathrooms. I also ECIO couple had one s rooms dedicated to h ospedaje. can get horses and mules for arre 
o. A couple of families sell water (at 3.50 soles girl and 10 soles bottle of 2 liters s), soft drinks, cookies TAS, some fruits (so warm the place there are trees d and papayas, custard apples and mangos), an occasional treat and beer, 10 soles bottle. A couple of bottles "saying s co" our throats, could is tired already had the bes languages'm our ro after Dilla. They were deliciously icy, Spark plug because aq is re gas refrigerators, and we celebrate and recover forces to the decline d final day. After a short break anything or continue down. I counted like 20 to get zigzag ar Rosalina. Here the road became more sec or never and we ac cactus ompañaro 
n t odo this tray ecto. There are some very large and high reminded me l columnar as the Quebrada Browningia ada of Tinajas m uy near Lima. Also other smaller, with bright red tubular flowers, finally started showing vegetation very red in the deras of these hills and the sound of the river ... he was growing ez v stronger, signal arrival we were near the camp ... until we arrived. was already 4 o'clock in the afternoon e. Our legs and asked rest. At the end of the tour concludes that this was the section more required 5 days of walking. We arrived at Pla and Rosalina, there was no sand on the shore as I thought at the beginning and it was not easy ta n BATHTUB ass in the river, as I had been told my friends in Lima, in addition ore than the cloud of mosquitoes that awaited us below. H ay a small kiosk with a lady who lives there and 
sell ag ua, sodas, etcetc ... besides fruit. Charles aba released on a papaya, which com left with friends and turned out to be a delicacy by how sweet he was and what cool our palates you dry. Soon devoured Tereza and Elizabeth remained in post. The place is a set of ions edificac very recent, with bathrooms and showers as a center vacaci onal, however does not work as ta l. A falt to someone to report, that night we set up tents not and we settled into a room that was ab ertainly, insulated and sleepings only on the ground and ready ... to cook dinner and organize for the next day. The night Rosa lina is hot. The place is at 1500 meters altitude and locked in the narrow canyon , so do not feel cold. Without pregnant had to go to sleep smeared with repellent as mosquitoes planned "cenarnos" entirely. Nor were alone because a group of more than 10 person as the darkness came almost Dad and leaves us little about hosting. This group started at 5 or 6 in the morning next to chok uequi rao and was our "wake up" morning. Their plan was to reach the citadel and then walk to Agu as Calientes. We start at 7 and a little more, after the "hearty" breakfast of oatmeal and t egg Ortilla 
or H ot dog. Rosalina is frequent in you hear flocks of parrots as viv in the surrounding mountains and down into the gorge eating the fruit of the locals. Quiosquito lady t to lso told me that there are bats that eat fruit, so q eu or parrots and bats are bi in seen by them. Bat also commented that "itch" to horses, I suppose to be vampires, and much care given to sleep in the open ...... 
started the day with enthusiasm and trying d and beat the sun that when do fall for these dollars can be ruthless. Being in charge I left the kitchen always last. Other "ripped" enas ap finished breakfast. What we knew was that first merely have to get to a place called "Santa Rosa Low" and au nthat from Rosalina not see, I had seen the day outside with an detail as were the stops to be done. Santa Rosa, both "low " Santa Rosa and the other a little above, are located approx ox. to 2100 mts. At first the road is very austere, as the term we bring to Rosalina, well off and very limited by a vertical skirt on that hill, near a wall. It arrives in an hour and a half to two hours and there is a nice area to stay, campsites style of Sant Eulalia Alred or Chosica. There is a cane sugar mill site,
ues p the plant and there cr ece well as custard apple trees, avocados and others. N also a small kiosk that provides water, soda and a few other things as well as a friendly girl call mado Julian who tends to the place and talk nicely with what I saw or walk Ajero to stop there, stop being "mandatory" because Santa Rosa comes from the river with a Saharan thirst and sweating due to the strong sun and by that time we reached the point that part of the ceremonial there is to pump and squeeze the pole mast h removed as sweat soaked our clothes. In fact there are plenty of water and even a shower that can take place as the host of permits while waiting for clothes to dry a little drinking water, soda or sa or maybe a cold beer seated or banking site. The places r is so nice to throw in the backpack causes lie in soloing in p asto, but we know that that day we must come to camp up there passing first through M aranpata, so there is no other than ret omar backpack and tinue . L 
another Santa Ros a, "high" this "allicito just" 20 minutes up, and the rancher is the aunt of Julian, but not as friendly as the obrino s, but there can instruct the lady who prepared a stew or saucer. The toilets of Santa Rosa High is much better and Jan you green your area for tents. Both places charge "astronomical" sum of 1 sol per tent, nothing to embezzle our pockets. D spent the argo there and we saw com or had changed the landscape, as the Two Holy Roses are green ba stant in relation to Playa Rosalina. There are plenty crop fields and crops. Many small birds accompany the walks and mountains as they are increasing amounts of wild flowers and vegetation. It also increases the shadow on the road, appear as large shrubs and trees that provide, Ac or welcome in a warm way and at noon. As we turned a bend we know each v ez m Maranpata as close, I look and l tree that gave me the Wilberto pointed
to earlier and other times I see, more and more large. Other Maranpata must already be in, so Breto Cesar and Tereza do that went co No horses. It's almost one in the afternoon and suddenly I can not stop now to spot the tree very large, which indicates that we to Maranpata is a pig is ad or eucalyptus waiting with SHADE ar the walkers as they arrive forever. Classic sign appears signaling the place and I think that there promotion just as the citadel is there, the forehead ... little mistake ... although you see "there, in front" to reach it must first will go a tram or anything small. Maranpata is truly a beautiful site located on a hill up there. It is a special place because it allows divis ar not only Inca city but also Apurimac canyon in all its glory, as well as the surrounding mountains, some snow. There are more than a couple many area homes and camping, as lu garen have prepared their rooms for the installation of the camps. For now is the last place where one can stock up on water and some food you because in the later camp is not got nothing. I find myself again Wilberto the carrier who tells me that all my co mpañeros continued co n Amilcar, the other 
carrier, who pulled the mules with our luggage, camping o p "bottom" of the citadel, in na zo camping. To get there you walk so m m enos something as a medium pace and time that part of the route has go down as pronounced and therefore also increases that do spec ialmente tired as you bring the bustle of the 5 hours and legs rising and want to stop for the day. However, it is especially fascinating because the way lets look at the impressive Inca terraces, "hanging" almost vertically on the side of the hills and looking down the Apurimac River. Fascin also to the increase in veg etation as the road gets into the gorges of the mountain. flowers begin to appear res are not below, as well as some streams of water. Birds are not surprising and their songs and trills are heard more clearly and varieties d. This is truly a magical place q ue appears to be a rain forest where plant and animal species together, as t or sierra and jungle. If n yet we are in the mountains and know that "flipping" the hill on the way to Aguas Calientes, the landscape changes again and becomes new tively barren, but now only LLE garemos Choquequirao camp. And 
to were more than two in the afternoon I continued the way to the camp and began to leak, corroborating the sunny little cloudy and the weather was that day. The water that fell at that time was enough for you empaparn, aunq ue the bustle and hurry to get there and end up that day made us feel the rain. It is rare in August rains in the highlands and high jungle of our Peru, but in these times of global warming, anything can happen and is never to be ma other s of the properly prepared. I ENCA nt find many orchid plants and bromeliads in trees, some with flowers. Also many butterflies and insects really a different landscape all previous before seen in this route, until he finally arrives at camp after little something more than an hour at a good pace. The boys had arrived and brought their tents, the same as they were wet with rain. Antero met, who had arrived first and had merely used the time to shower, then at Camp Choquequirao en suite bathrooms are in very good condition and with plenty of ice water. Along the campaign to men is a cabin that is those who run the place and are responsible of collection and entry to the place. Co 
bran the exaggerated sum of 36 dollars per na personal and service offer no guidance to the citadel. tamp oco and ind is any printed information and even a garbage bin to deposit. staff working there is esp ecial spare, before my claim quer er am charge carriers is saying only that "they know nothing", which is the INC who has everything and they limited to do what you say ... fine Cusco lment to my argument that the carrier only leave backpacks and Maranpata back to not charge me for them. It said that the INC Cusco c work 18 soles per qu carrier and enter Maranpata beyond, spending that has to take q ho hires, and is completely illogical since you carriers l are those who will take tourists , Cusco would imagine that if the carriers could have Cachora ... in fact remain if No visitors. Several shortcomings are in that camp, I hope things better for the benefit of visitors who deserve MEJ 
or to get there. Around 4 m edia pm Stop the rain and left a beautiful rainbow and after a while began the early-morning meal, mashed potatoes, some canned goods, bread, soup ram in, porridge and promise to make a cup of tea with biscuits or for that of 9 in the evening. Nobody Levan to after dinner, all caught sleep early, c to rest on what is necessary to waking up at 6 am the next day and ascend to the citadel. The initial plan was to spend a day in the Citadel and cross it with carefully. But we decided to go down the same next day because we saw very " Wet pussy the camp and had to avoid possible rain that soaked all our stuff, then we would have five or six hours the next day to r Ecorr the citadel and then down to Santa Rosa Baja camping. Our omen as to what "wet" does not deceive us. That n ight the rain started, I estimate at about 11 pm and not stop for any reason the climate cooling and soaking much tent was installed there. ... THIRD DAY ...
All that morning the rain fell steadily and there was no tent qu and suffered no is by water since the area camps ne nt tie some inclination ng and favors the ag ua penetrate the floor. Needless to say of mud that turned the roads. A lthough wanted to start as early as possible to climb to the citadel we could not do as the rain stopped. Nando finished breakfast in one of the showers in the bathrooms, building that no one dared to bathe rse h as Elada water. At about 8 thirty in the morning began to subside and decided to climb to the citadel, the same is 45 minutes or less above the mpamento ca. Would have to go until 2 pm
and a maximum, then down, pick things and start back to Santa Rosa Baja. The road to the ci udadela is accompanied by or lush vegetation na tion and that day was completely muddy. I imagine it will be like in the era of lluv ia, t the time not walk well. However and despite moments that sparked Hit me
you up around 9 ½ d morning and finally ¡¡¡... ...¡¡¡ were in place that motivated us to make this trip and really see the grandeur of the buildings Incas made worthwhile all the effort. First could find on arrival are few sidewalks that lead to the main plaza l, very broad, level and surrounded g reat buildings with roofs in a "V" in ép its goose should be prot ection, in the manner of Machu Pichu. Then v ienen a series of buildings as we visit the place and we ascend gradually. We also see the impressive old stone trough t pit water from above as well as more buildings that follow one after another. This should s 
er the primary role in this citadel. We reached the top of the l 
ugar and from there we spotted the Ushno í or ceremonial platform ma found practically body looking into the canyon of the Apurimac. However, what we are most rprendió so were the colorful flames of stone, very white d Ecored whole ndenería to observe that requires taking a path that descends vertically above Apu Rimac and surrounded by vegetation uberante ex bear mount. To observe these unique fire in all its fullness we have to reach a precarious my tor that is at the forefront of all the slope on the hill. Ecstatic after watching them back to the main plaza l now taking up this road up and we once again test our physical rest. We take time to descend to the platforms that we saw on arrival at Maranpata and are on the other side of cerr l 
or silver flames. Time passed quickly and we had to ap resurgence to return to the camp because it was past one o'clock. View truly worth staying a whole day there and cross it carefully, it will be for a future visit. Lu ego r visiting the Inca city hurried back to c ampamento to collect things. Our friendly carriers and had come from Maranpata and tents had been disarmed, it was necessary to rush for that we were with time and did not want surprise us in the hush of darkness a.
started
past two-thirty in the afternoon and for a change began to dribble again without e mbarg not seen as threat of heavy rain from the sky cleared moments. I appreciate down the vegetation and this time advised by a biologist from Cusco who was making an inventory of flora on site. It happens that in Choquequirao ntran species surveyed saw both as high jungle, so m heard that an ecosystem is very special for these latitudes. Maybe it perpendicular peaks and mountains that form real walls d
and rock that happen there. Besides the abundance vegetation that makes many other s you establish their homes there, d rom small art rop ll and insects to large Andean bears and deer still wander down. hope soon to declare all the rides NA as Natural and Historic Shrine and also ensure the archaeological ntangibilidad i GICA also protecting its ecosystem. We arrived at Santa Rosa down almost overnight. We recognized the symposia remove Julian who was attending despite the darkness and that we greatly rejoice. Also allowed us to use one of their rooms to install our kitchen and indoor picnic with some comfort, so after a delicious and varied meal, including desktop, became our "kitchen" rmitorio do ... that night rest much better than the previous and the next day you saw or n deluxe breakfast.
FOURTH DAY ... ...
This morning we had a good rest and a better climate. knew that the time factor was controlled, and therefore we would pa pod Sar or a little and enjoy some more of just being there, in contact with nature and enjoying the beautiful landscape quietly and companionship and good conversation with friends. Antero rose more tempra not others, breakfast and set off. It was the last time we saw him on the trip, since I do not stop until you return to Abancay, I think that m ism day. Other breakfast quietly conveniently located on the site of Julian who lent us their "furniture" for this purpose. About 9 and a half ago companies Ndima the march down to Rosalina and then ascending. That day we would go to Cocamasana, where they would camp and we would be about a day since you following (Saturday) we had to get to Cachora around noon and take a car to Abancay. As always I went last and did the hike alone. The minority of ca b faded allowed me to observe details of the flora and fauna of the bottom of the Quebrada del Apurimac. The huge c
antide of red grass cu ber from half of the hill to the river level and mix with eryotecas cactus and trees without foliage and at this time. I also found a large green beetle, awesome, not only by size but by or confident attitude to the lens of my camera. Do not know what variety it is, but after the boys told me they too had seen. I also commented on 
Guanábana impressive that devour Tere za in Rosalina, the only pe nsarl and feel the fragrance of this delicious fruit and l palate. Going down to Rosalina and cross the bridge saw something moving in the co pas trees. It was a large bird with beige tan chest and belly, jumping among the branches. In the beginning I thought it was a guan but after observing it carefully I realized that was kind, was a Cuckoo or Cuco, blackened birds related to Guardacaballos, looking for insects and small fruits among the vegetation tion , these species are very useful as they fought to trees of harmful pests. Small birds, insects and butterflies 
as hover in the bottom of the qu 
Ebrad, est last as remarkable for being eng aphthous mimetic. I counted over 20 switchbacks to be overcome to reach CHIQUISCA a. When you get there after about an hour from Rosalina, take for water and refresh. Chiquisca definitely is the biggest camp of all the route and to confirm that there can be consequences Guir hosts je rustic, but there and found some foreigners staying njoy d nature. Since sub Chiquisca way to Cocamasana is just under an hour. The sun fuertísimo h izo we reached the place heated. Fortunately, my arrival was most welcome, as Cesar offered me a glass of cold beer, the most delicious who has tried in recent times. Cocamasana camp is truly a special place because it is a ledge overlooking the Canyon and to the Inca citadel. In one of the two houses of the place does a bodeguita, with enough to cool and calm ar hunger. addition, the kind owner has prepared a room for dining for tourists. There is a shower which is always the best remedy to cool to get heated from Rosalina, is in fact place to stop for all who pass through here, either outbound or return. Because it is something stuck in a cannon arm forms a m very warm icroclima favors the appearance of a semi-dry forest. On the day we saw condors flying over the place, we saw both the outward and return, and at night was spectacular, as the song of the night owls and other birds joined the spec spectacle of lights of fireflies that covered virtually entire ar ea of \u200b\u200bcamping, an unforgettable event of nature.
... FIFTH DAY ...
That day just being back in town gave us the courage to leave very early g anarle the sun. So we did and so the breakfast was particularly short. The first who left were Tereza and Cesar, mounted their horses, they knew that everything that stretch for them was riding as it is rising. The carriers also strive to make that last day as fast as you can
and come home earlier for a Cicala, relax and be with their families. However, the other 3, as Antero and had disappeared the previous day, we still had to walk, not just the end of the climb up Capuliyoc after nearly 3 hours of climbing, but the 11 miles down the road Cachora ground up. Those 11 miles are as 22 
although we do not accept it, the fatigue of the previous 4 days begin to feel and can not wait to finish the route and we are in the population and eating properly seated at a table. Without But, as we had seen on the first day, the creek has a herm Cachora
bear framework of greenery and beauty, including some brief s springs that refresh us before arrive. Caught my attention the large flocks of parrots red forehead, there are many groups of birds, parrots calculated by bands at 100, imagine the fruit trees are cone after a tour of these birds so that people who have gardens detest. Finally, after 3 hours walk from the open we Cachora Square, almost falling from fatigue and heat and with a desire to take something frozen that we cool the throat.
After this ceremonial, almost magical time and rediscover all
in town looking for a mobility that we moved as quickly as possible to Abancay, recalling that the bus to take us to Lima hand at 5 afternoon and would have only 3 hours of available time, you need to find a shower, have lunch and get on the bus. it was and about 2 pm we were in Abancay. A mixture of satisfaction and regret, that we had managed to reach our goal, and experiences shared by all those days that came to an end.
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